from Ar Avatars by Hop on the Spiral and Reed+Rader

We love the fashion story Ar Avatars, the newest collaboration between photography duo Reed+Rader and Hop on the Spiral’s Ryan Dye. Move over Inez & Vinoodh. Thanks to hair auteur Saya Hughes, who created the tresses for this project, for bringing it to our attention!

Tags: Ar Avatars, GIF, Hop on the Spiral, POP, Reed+Rader, Ryan Dye, Saya Hughes.

Sept. 18, 2009

Friday night, a fashionable crowd packed into the Hiding Gallery in Brooklyn to view “Selenite”, a presentation of emerging designers, Ann Yee and Pipertree Leather. With video art displayed in the lofty art space, the crowd enjoyed an evening capped with a runway show, while later, models mingling amongst the crowd, decked out in spring ‘10 designer wares by Ann Yee and jewelry by Pipertree Leather.

The twelve look presentation offered an adorable collection of ultra feminine, too-cool-for school fashion looks complemented with earth-like, leather & stone crafted jewelry. The organically feminine feeling was conveyed through such looks as the soft layered drapings of silk georgette and charmeuse in varying pastel shades, the petal like folds of silk shorts, and the ruffled edges of a billowing cape like sleeve on a silk romper. The soft pastel palette, contrasted with a neutral pale grey and a shot of magenta invited the viewer further into this feminine romp.

Favorites included the orange creamsicle silk dress with detachable back draping for the wearer to decide on dramatic effect, the pocket details on nearly every piece, and the cotton shirt dress with lapels that extended to the hem, with pleat stitches hidden in the racerback detail.

The jewelry, not to be outdone by the clothing, was modern with an old soul. The designer of Pipertree Leather, Alexandra Lauro, handcrafts each piece with earth-laden objects, such as stones, shells, lanyard, & leather to create objects reminiscent of talismans of old and that special piece of jewelry made as a child.

Favorites included a mollusk shell ring with various crystal-like stones jutting out from the surface of the shell and a necklace of flattened rocks, hinged by what seemed to be rope like leather surrounding each piece and the wearer’s neck.

Photos courtesy of Ann Yee

Tags: Ann Yee, Pipertree Leather, runway show, spring 2010.

Tom Scott, whose Fall 2009 presentation took place in a garment district storefront transformed into a mannequin-filled drycleaning studio, took a step further in his exploration of fashion presentation as conceptual installation for his Spring/Summer 2010 collection last Thursday.

Inspired by “’some of the old-fashioned things you can find in your grandmother’s house,’” Scott upped the Fashion Week ante by moving the location of his most recent presentation out of the garment district altogether, and into Room 710 at the historic Chelsea Hotel in Manhattan’s contemporary gallery center. The hybridization of art-fair theatrics with clothing design resulted in a environment with charms hard to resist.

In a fully-furnished apartment redolent with the spirit of mid-century domesticity (complete with pink tiled tub, overstuffed couch and an array of milky glass plates filled with sweets on the sideboard), models dressed in Scott’s collection played the roles of glamorous residents in the household vignettes staged in each room. The attention-grabbing detail, beautiful light and authentic tone of the presentation almost overshadowed the understated beauty of the clothes themselves.

Taking cues from the nudes of photographers Melanie Bonajo and Georges Tony Scott, the designer showed knit separates and dresses and in muted flesh and pastel palettes that draped on or exposed on the body in unexpected ways. Notable pieces included a jersey drape-back curtain dress and sheer drape pants.

Visit Tom Scott

All photos by The Totam

Tags: 2010 fashion week, Chelsea Hotel, knits, Spring Summer 2010, Tom Scott.

Karen Walker tote bags given to the front rows at the show

This past Saturday was a rainy one but that didn’t stop the fashionistas from attending the Karen Walker show for New York fashion week. But underneath all those umbrellas, lucky show-goers managed to snag Karen Walker totes filled with fashion swag!!

Walker is a designer hailing from New Zealand with a definite knack for casual luxury. Her spring 2010 collection was inspired by the British television series ‘The Prisoner’ which aired in the 1960’s, and took place on a mysterious Edwardian seaside village, a prison for retired spies cached as a holiday resort. The dichotomy of an island vacation versus an island in captivity lends itself perfectly into Walker’s work. Her designs appear effortless yet put-together, masculine yet feminine, adorable yet fierce. In this way, it is clear that one of Walker’s many gifts is her ability to balance design. If there is a proper way to layer three different patterns and prints in one outfit, it is walking down her runway.

Her runway was filled with chic and playful designs. I loved the bold use of stripes and their emphasis on a loosely-fitted top or bottom. Paired with a frill or ruffle, the overbearing stripe suddenly becomes chic. The belted dress with cascading layers at the hip is forgiving to any silhouette and brings with it an air of casual elegance.

Tiered dresses, ruffled shoulders, and bubble-shaped jumpers added young coyness and youthful vibrancy to the palette. I love how the light, short, and airy dresses were anchored down with a pop of color from practical boat shoes or a dark, unbashful sock.

Walker’s command of jacket design is astounding. She showcased more than a dozen different varieties of outerwear on the runway - all made of various materials, cuts, and designs. Some tailored, some ruffled ponchos, some trenches, some capes - each jacket had a fundamental statement.

Karen Walker greets the crowd.

The show was a wonderful medley of shapes, lengths, and colors that seamlessly flowed together. To make such incongruity effortlessly harmonize on the runway is a feat that should not be taken lightly. With her stunning spring 2010 collection, Walker has managed to appeal a yacht-full of different personalities and tastes under one label.

Visit Karen Walker

Tags: Karen Walker, Runway, seaside, Spring/Summer 2010 Fashion Week.

Vena Cava’s Spring 2010 presentation at Milk Studios was equal parts traditional runway show, presentation and happening as models came down the catwalk, then arranged themselves on steel workladders accompanied live by Brooklyn experimental indie duo The Fiery Furnaces.

The looks centered around clean silhouettes in acid wash prints in shades of grey, black and dark brown punched up with details like nylon mesh, laser cutouts and safety-pin trim.

Some of our favorite designs included an orange cupra jersey asymmetrical minidress with a black mesh strap inset, and a sleeveless, halter duster with a rolled collar worn over washed navy leather jeans. The duster’s print was inspired by Ndebele house paintings in South Africa.

Designers Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai cited the character of Maude Lebowski as an inspiration, reflected in the styling of their models (and in Mayock’s hair!) who sported matte purple lips, Robert Clergerie shoes, black sunglasses and mystery-woman visor hats.

Clockwise from top left: Patrick Robinson, The Fiery Furnaces, Julianne Moore as Maude Lebowski (photo: Merrick Morton), Lisa Mayock of Vena Cava

Visit: Vena Cava

All photos by The Totam except where credited.

Tags: 2010 Spring Fashion Week, Milk Studios, Vena Cava.

Gratis champagne at Lord & Taylor / the adorable cupcakes from the Glamour Treats Truck

The highly anticipated Fashion’s Night Out event that took over New York City Thursday night flashed by in a flurry of shopping, champagne, and models. Follow my journey around Manhattan for the evening.

A still from Jasmin Shokrian's video / courtesy of the designer

I started off the night at Jasmin Shokrian’s video screening of her Draft No. 17 collection. Her latest designs, which will span four seasons, are based on the concept of a slip dress turned into tops, dresses, skirts, etc. Each piece is inspired by the influential ladies in her life. A part of each woman’s spirit, as experienced by Jasmin, is encapsulated in fabric and formed into a garment. The video showcased the actual women that had triggered the collection including actress China Chow, painters Rebecca Morris and Jennifer Rochlin, and fashion designer Mary Ping.

Next it was off to the Meatpacking District to see what else FNO had to offer. Ikea was kind enough to set up a lounge in the middle of the cobblestone streets to offer fashionista girls a place to rest their heels (or at least that was my take on it).

The massive crowds at Tory Burch and Theory

We popped into Theory and it was jam-packed. I’m not sure that people could have even looked at merchandise because there were so many live mannequins crowding the floor. One girl bragged that she bought a jacket (which she was already donning) just so she could get a glass of free champagne.

Along the way to Tory Burch, we spotted the Treats Truck that was sponsored by Glamour magazine and helped ourselves to free cupcakes. How cute!! - “Live for Glamour.”

Tory Burch was overflowing with people both outside and inside. That is probably because Tory Burch teamed up with La Esquina and set up an outdoor taqueria outside her storefront. They dished out free grilled corn and quesadillas all night!! Tory also offered buckets of free Fiji water in addition to the alcoholic beverages inside.

We then headed up to Lord & Taylor for the Vogue event. Liberal amounts of alcohol were being passed out on all floors of this department store and it was definitely necessary. Turns out bigger is not always better because the event seemed basically empty as it was dispersed all throughout the store.

Then we decided to check out Sean John. This was the only event that had a velvet-rope with boys and girls lining up dutifully behind it, hoping to get in. Luckily we had a piece of gum, offered it to the “bouncer”, and stepped right in. The store was packed and everyone was rocking their urban attire (which includes wearing sunglasses at night). The deejay was playing hip-hop hits and some orange drink (most likely mixed with Ciroc) was being served at the bar.

Metal mesh necklace and denim leggings at BCBG

Afterwards, we stepped next door to BCBG and finally did a little shopping! I found this gorgeous Metal Mesh necklace that wears like a glamorous bandana. BCBG also offered a fun array of ponte riding pants and denim leggings.

And with that, let Fashion Week commence!

Tags: BCBG, champagne, cupcakes, Fashion's Night Out, Glamour, Ikea, Jasmin Shokrian, Lord & Taylor, Mary Ping, Sean John, shopping, Theory, Tory Burch, Vogue.

Organic's spring 2010 presentation

The dark recesses of the famed midtown steakhouse Keens hosted Organic’s spring 2010 presentation earlier today. The collection is designed by John Patrick and in just a handful of seasons, Patrick has created a label that has a strong voice as well as a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nomination under its belt.

Straight out of a scene from Louis Malle’s Pretty Baby, Organic’s troop of models lolled and lounged on a stage area and nearby leather banquettes while Shalom Harlow stood nearby at the century old bar in a crisp cotton suit. The girls were mesmerizing, with lush pin-curled hair (courtesy of hairstylist Odile Gilbert), matte red lips (by Gucci Westman) and holding stares (their own). The atmosphere as well as the clothes was highly addictive. Cotton seersucker was abundant and appeared as a casual blazer with rolled up sleeves (an Organic staple) and as a shawl-collared jacket complete with matching shorts. A Laura Ashley lilac floral print graced a 1940’s day dress silhouette finished with shoulder pads. Heavier fabrics were offset by a gorgeous sheer camp shirt in a washed silk chiffon cut splendidly with fuller sleeves. Sumptuous and sustainable, Patrick’s line goes entirely beyond the notion of the organic cotton t-shirt, producing a full collection of beautiful clothing that just happens to be good for the Earth as well.

Shalom Harlow at the bar

All images by the Totam

Visit Organic by John Patrick

Tags: 2010 fashion week, John Patrick, Organic, organic clothing.

Inside the Dossier shop

the Dossier shop in Fort Greene, Brooklyn / Zac Posen's alligator Dossier tote bag

Skye: Yeah, the idea in the beginning was to sort of create a forum for creative people. The first issue in particular is lots of people we know and friends of family. As we have continued the magazine we have expanded beyond that. A lot of contributors now are people we don’t know or people who have come to us and a lot of people we profile are also people we don’t personally know.

Who is the most exciting person who has come and approached you about a submitting a peice?

Skye: While we were working on the first issue, we were discussing with a friend of a friend about what we were doing and all of a sudden Zac Posen came to us with a story that he had styled to see if it was something we would be interested in. Obviously we were super interested and Zac is now a contributing editor for the magazine.

Do you see a reflection of the magazine in the store?

Skye: Oh, yes definitely. Because it is a really small space, we focus on very high end vintage and young local designers. In starting the store, we have been able to get to know a lot of those designers. Samantha Pleet, for example, contributed to this coming issue of the magazine. Jewelry designer Pamela Love is also a contributing editor the magazine. So a lot of the people who have contributed to the store are also a part of the magazine.

Art books and carnival masks / A vintage Saks Fifth Avenue cocktail dress

Tell us a little bit about how you three gals who are also friends work together.

Skye: I think our tastes and interests are definitely different. Katherine is a real vintage fanatic so she takes care of the vintage aspect of the store. Because I work in fashion as a photographer, I help bring in the new clothes and also get a lot of the photo books that are in the store. The third partner of the magazine, Molly, does the ad sales of the magazine. Molly also comes out of the art world, so she gets a lot of the amazing, esoteric art books that we have. The store is like a mix/mesh of all of our different interests.

Do you feel any pressure?

Skye: This is the fourth issue of the magazine, so we don’t really feel as much pressure with it as we do with the store. I remember after the first issue of the magazine came out we were like, “We have to do that again?” And it’s the same thing now with the store – we came out, we did spring, everything was great, we got a great response, and now we are like “We have to switch everything out for fall and do it all again?”

What has owning a shop taught you?

Skye: I think we are learning a lot as we go along. Really our goal for the store is to just put things that we think are interesting and for the most part that has been working out so far. I mean we’ve definitely had some surprises in terms of things that we’ve been like, “I was sure that someone would buy that,” especially with some of the beautiful vintage pieces. Or certain pieces of jewelry - we’re like, “That’s so weird that this is still here.” But we are learning more about our customer as we go.

Has the customer mutated much from what you had expected?

Skye: We do a kind of artsy, fashiony, mish-mosh magazine so we get a lot of artsy, fashiony, mish-mosh people. I guess, the only people that we didn’t, for whatever reason, that we hadn’t thought about – were students from Pratt…which seems silly that we didn’t think about that. But we do get a lot of customers from Pratt.

If you could choose one item in the store to keep, what would it be and why?

Skye: I love this Pamela Love claw cuff. It is amazing. And I love this necklace designed by Aesa.

Aesa necklace and Pamela Love Claw Cuff

Tell us a little bit about your tote project.

Skye: We did a project last year where we gave our tote bags - just the basic bags that we use for our store with our logo on it – to various artists and designers to customize. We had lots of different people, musicians, artists, stylists, and it was pretty cool what people chose to do. We got about 200 of them back and they were on sale through our website.

Scorpio pillow (and other signs) available only at Dossier

Say hello to Skye and her partners at the Dossier store located in Fort Greene, Brooklyn at 244 DeKalb Avenue or visit them virtually here. The fourth issue should be appearing within the next three weeks. Pre-order your copy here or be on the lookout at your local newsstands.

All photos by The Totam

Tags: Brooklyn, Brooklyn shops, Dossier, Fort Greene, Pamela Love, Samantha Pleet, vintage clothing, Zac Posen.

In fashion, there are often some slow-turning trends that always seem to be in the shadows..for season after season. They don’t emerge quickly, which is why they do not become fads, and slowly our eyes become trained and adjusted to their presence. Slowly but surely, mass consumers will respond.

Rebecca Taylor's faux-fur vest & Chloé's thigh-high suede boots

One such trend is the thigh-high boot. Think Pretty Woman. With shorts and skirts becoming ever more mini, these puppies will certainly be a head-turner. It is in these rare instances that the more coverage, the more scandalous. If you don’t have the legs of a runway supermodel, opt for above-the-knee length boots that will actually have a slimming effect on your thighs!! These super cute suede boots by Chloé are laced up along the back and fastened on the side with a metal buckle.

Another must-have item will be the fur vest. If you have started your fall shopping, than you already know about this trend. And you have most likely already imagined yourself walking down a tree-bordered leafy sidewalk on a crisp, cool day in October in a long-sleeved mini-dress, casually covered by an unassuming, shaggy fur vest (which is actually the centerpiece of your outfit), while touting a leather messenger bag that is effortlessly strapped across your torso. I tried on this faux-fur vest from Rebecca Taylor and nearly had a heart attack thinking of all the possible outfits this beauty could accentuate.

If you are anything like me, you have probably been programmed to shun the concept of shoulder pads. Who wants the broad shoulders of a man? Well guess what - big shoulders are back…and in a big way. As we are stepping back into the 80’s, keep in mind that the louder the jacket, the better.

Alice & Olivia & Top Shop's military jacket offerings

Michael Jackson military-inspired jackets will not only be an important ode to the late King of Pop but they are also tres in-style this season! Fall in line with some extra flair from elaborate embellishments and oversized epaulettes via Alice & Olivia’s shrunken military jacket.

When I walked into Top Shop last month, I spent over an hour trying on and examining every single sequined trophy jacket that they offered. I love the youthful, unpremeditated look of three-quarter sleeved blazers - and ones that are covered in sequins are no exception. These jackets are the perfect accompaniment to a casual t-shirt and ripped jeans look during the day or over a scanty dress in the evening.

Two years ago, you might have thought these pieces only belonged in the world of high-fashion. This season, however, they are a necessary addition to every wardrobe. With a great pair of thigh-high boots, a fur vest, and an embellished jacket - you will be perfectly (and fashionably) covered for the upcoming fall season.

For more of Jean Hsu’s Essential Luxuries, please visit www.jeanjhsu.com

Tags: Chloe, embellished jackets, Fall Fashion, faux-fur, Michael Jackson, military jackets, shoulder pads, thigh-high boots.

Hi, my name is Jean and I am a new contributor to The Totam’s style blog! One thing that you must know about me is that although my name is Jean, I absolutely HATE wearing jeans!! I’m a short girl and I don’t have the tiniest waistline, so denim and I really aren’t the best of friends. I don’t remember the last time I slipped on a pair of uncomfortable, stiff, tummy-pinching jeans. Thank goodness leggings have been a trend over the past few years and it doesn’t look like they are going anywhere anytime soon. Over the past few seasons, however, I have noticed a trends towards developing WEARABLE JEANS! - denim that has crazy two-way stretch (for extra comfort), denim leggings (the ease and comfort of leggings in lightweight, extra-stretchy denim), and secret slim-it-up features (to hide all those problem areas). All of this alternative denim technology has actually tempted me to give jeans another chance.

Here are a few pairs that have caught my eye:

Sretsis Acid Jeans

Hailing from Bangkok, we have the Agyness denim legging hybrid from the brand Sretsis (which is SISTERS spelled backwards!). The comfort of leggings in a worn-out acid-washed, ripped, 80’s-inspired look.

Want a more classic, clean look? Check out Adriano Goldschmeid’s version of the denim legging - the Tights. Notice the button closure is replaced by a slimming elastic waist band (that doesn’t gather). These pants are literally slipped on just like leggings! The stretch denim conforms to your legs to create a skinny silhouette and will fool anyone into thinking you were wearing a real pair of five-pocket jeans.

Adriano Goldschmeid's The Tights & Nobody's P 2621 Grinder Jean

If it’s not super tight and stretchy, the next best way to wear your jeans is big and baggy. Inspired by the blue-collar worker, this is not your typical boyfriend jean (that only looks good on J. Crew models). Take the boy-fit jeans from Nobody, an Australian label that takes true value in denim engineering, quality Japanese denim, and works to never construct a brand identity. I especially like the tough look of the P 2621 Grinder - there is something to be said about a woman who can pull off this manly, worn-in pant. Wear with feminine pride.

Warehouse's Denim Harem Jean

With denim looking so unique and so effortless, my leggings may need to take a backseat this season!!

For more of Jean Hsu’s Essential Luxuries, please visit www.jeanjhsu.com

Tags: 1980's, acid wash, Adriano Goldschmeid, boyfriend jeans, Denim, denim leggings, elastic waist jeans, harem denim, harem jeans, jeans, Nobody, R13, skinny jeans, Sretsis, stretch denim.