Sept. 18, 2009

Friday night, a fashionable crowd packed into the Hiding Gallery in Brooklyn to view “Selenite”, a presentation of emerging designers, Ann Yee and Pipertree Leather. With video art displayed in the lofty art space, the crowd enjoyed an evening capped with a runway show, while later, models mingling amongst the crowd, decked out in spring ‘10 designer wares by Ann Yee and jewelry by Pipertree Leather.

The twelve look presentation offered an adorable collection of ultra feminine, too-cool-for school fashion looks complemented with earth-like, leather & stone crafted jewelry. The organically feminine feeling was conveyed through such looks as the soft layered drapings of silk georgette and charmeuse in varying pastel shades, the petal like folds of silk shorts, and the ruffled edges of a billowing cape like sleeve on a silk romper. The soft pastel palette, contrasted with a neutral pale grey and a shot of magenta invited the viewer further into this feminine romp.

Favorites included the orange creamsicle silk dress with detachable back draping for the wearer to decide on dramatic effect, the pocket details on nearly every piece, and the cotton shirt dress with lapels that extended to the hem, with pleat stitches hidden in the racerback detail.

The jewelry, not to be outdone by the clothing, was modern with an old soul. The designer of Pipertree Leather, Alexandra Lauro, handcrafts each piece with earth-laden objects, such as stones, shells, lanyard, & leather to create objects reminiscent of talismans of old and that special piece of jewelry made as a child.

Favorites included a mollusk shell ring with various crystal-like stones jutting out from the surface of the shell and a necklace of flattened rocks, hinged by what seemed to be rope like leather surrounding each piece and the wearer’s neck.

Photos courtesy of Ann Yee

Tags: Ann Yee, Pipertree Leather, runway show, spring 2010.

For Fall ‘09, Ecco Domani Award recipient Matthew Ames has produced a timeless collection. While the pieces could easily be reminiscent of vintage Halston in their draping, they could also just as easily resonate with the future; with the ultra-suede hooded jumpsuit, the billowing pants, and the love of volume and boundless fabrics. Ames skillfully straddles that precarious middle ground of being influenced by the past and creating for the future.

This season Ames stripped things bare, leaving his usual pop of geometric patterns and textures for past seasons. Using a classic color palette, Ames’ draping and love of volume held its own ground. Floor-length cashmere coats draped over wide-leg jumpsuits were crisp with clean finishes and nearly hidden seams. Silhouettes appeared never-ending as fabric folded into itself, sometimes draping across or wrapping around into a denim kimono or cashmere poncho. Ames’ signature waist gathering emerged this season in a standout red silk crepe dress amongst the collection of modern looks for the woman of today, or tomorrow.

All images c. The Totam

Tags: cashmere, draping, Fashion Week, geometric, Halston, jumpsuit, kimono, Matthew Ames, New York.

Marc Jacobs in Happier (Economic) Times

“I understand that this is a very big crisis, but it hasn’t affected me yet, nor has it affected people I normally see…when they say sales (at Christmas) might not be so good, I don’t know if that’s going to happen” stated economic wunderkind Marc Jacobs back in early Fall to WWD Magazine. Fast forward four months: his stores are on sale across the country at 70% off and with samples sales, prices are rumored to go lower. This time last year, Jacobs was dressed as a camel-toe jamming like it was 1929 at his annual holiday party, but wait, that’s been cancelled this year due to the economic downturn.

Stores like Saks are turning into the fashionista bargain hunter’s dream (if she hasn’t been laid off yet), with practically half the store at 50% off and designer clothing up to 70% off. Fashion companies are taking a long hard look at their options and are uncertain as to how they can stay afloat in these murky recession waters. If you don’t get smart now, you could go out of business.

How are small, designer companies supposed to survive if mega-brands like Gucci are even cutting production next year? The answer is they just might not. The fashion industry has gone Lord of the Flies and the luxury market known for its excess has just been given the check. With these facts in hand though, people are still shopping. Spenders are still spending, but the out-of-touch fashion reality is finally waking up with a really bad hang-over. As I was looking over all of the sale racks which were shoved into the main aisles at Saks Fifth Avenue, I still couldn’t find justification for the $200 jeans that were made in China. And at 50% off, I still wouldn’t be motivated to purchase. Who knows? I could be out of a job next month.

Té Casan & Hollywould, two downtown Manhattan shoe brands have recently closed. Imitation of Christ: closed. The next rumored brand to shutter is new and promising contemporary label Mischen. Linda Dresner, renowned Park Avenue boutique who has sold cutting edge clothing for over twenty years will also be closing her New York outpost. All major apparel retailers big and small are cutting costs wherever they can. “I know what’s selling at Bergdorf & Saks, they’re cutting numbers with an ax,” says Francesco Trapani, chief executive of luxury jewelry maker Bulgari. Now that Bulgari’s stocks and sales are dropping, Trapani is limiting store openings and cutting luxury perks in its product to ensure stability in this rocky time. Macy’s this November saw store sales fall 13%. In November. In Macy’s. And any woman worth that Halston sample sale dress she got at a steal knows: samples sales are abound this season as small designers are trying to get rid of overstock and the garments which are sent back from retailers who can’t pay, and overall are just trying to make a profit as they’re chained to department stores and specialty boutiques that are trying to survive themselves.

The future of fashion looks very bleak right now. With new companies still steaming ahead with their scheduled openings, and department stores taking another look at their current layouts taken up with too much of the same product, the only way ahead right now for the designer market is smart business acumen and a quality product. Give people a reason to shop. If you put out five different sweaters from Theory, Rag & Bone, Inhabit, Vince, Banana Republic, & Elie Tahari, could you tell the difference? They will all be made in China, some possibly by the same factory. Where are the trends that are getting people in the stores? Or the design direction pushing things forward? Hopefully the seriousness of these times are preventing the needless purchases like buying gladiator sandals just because Mary-Kate has them to the girl who can’t pay her tuition because her parents might lose their home. I’d like to hope the unstability we are seeing will give designers something a little deeper to run with, something any celebrity can’t make a quick buck off and something at least worth the money you put down for it. Here’s hoping.

Tags: Bergdorf, Bulgari, fashion industry, Hollywould, Imitation of Christ, Linda Dresner, Lord of the Flies, Macy's, Marc Jacobs, recession, Saks, sale, sample sale, Te Casan, WWD.

There has been much, perhaps too much, discussion about the wardrobe of Michelle Obama, especially her Election Night Narciso Rodriguez dress. At Wednesday night’s Glamour Magazine’s Women of the Year Awards in New York, Condoleezza Rice was asked her opinion about Michelle Obama’s style. Now, I don’t know about most people, but I do not want a Secretary of State giving fashion advice, however I am positive that she never read her job description properly. Websites like Mrs. O and Blacksnob have been keeping count of her every skirt and blouse like a data tracking team.

The hard-core fashion set, a.k.a. the folks that believe in the seriousness of a debate on an asymmetrical hemline, have recently been sent into a tizzy over Mrs. O’s Election Night dress. Though these are the same people who probably won’t be happy until she wears Balenciaga armor leggings and a Gareth Pugh dress.

Did she look beautiful? YES! Progressive for American Fashion? YES! If you were given that Narciso, you would have worn it! (You know you would have.)

Instead of looking into the shallowness of this conversation, why doesn’t someone commend Mrs. O on her support of the American fashion industry? Every retailer she has come in contact with is seeing sales rise based on a single publicity appearance. Maria Pinto is probably the only designer business on the rise right now. The small ready-to-wear designer based in Chicago has seen sales grow 45 percent since Obama decided to wear her favorite designer around the country. Traffic to jcrew.com was up 464 percent the night after Obama wore an all J. Crew ensemble on the Tonight Show.

And the Obama girls? Biscotti Inc., the childrenswear designer of Malia Obama’s Election Night bubble dress is in a mad rush to re-issue the red frock after being bombarded with new order requests.

However, there are some people out there who will never be happy. Bored to tears with Laura, now they finally have someone whose closet might rival their own. I’d hate to think that the insiders who set the rules, might not be pleased to have a powerful woman who doesn’t take notes from Vogue or use the “Buy me” stickers in her Lucky magazine. And it’s actually kind of refreshing.

Tags: Balenciaga, Condoleezza Rice, Gareth Pugh, J Crew, Lucky, Maria Pinto, Michelle Obama, Vogue.